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Savoie WINE REVIEW

Exploring Rare Mondeuse Blanche Wines in Brittany

Vignoble Perceval – Vin des Allobroges

So here I am just with a week’s holiday, not too far away from the suburbs of SW18 but far enough away from the whistle of the Monday-Friday commuters. A short trip over the channel and I’m in Brittany. A place not normally on my radar, till now but certainly one that won’t go unnoticed from now on.

Very British in climate but very agri-cultural when it comes to behavious. Bagette shops are packed out till 11 am , ladies meet up outside the shops and chat like they havnt seen each other in years and here in rural Brittany Uk number plates raise an eyebrow and a quizzical look! Still they do have supermarkets Super U (tesco-esque) U express ( Sainsburys) and Leclerc (Waitrose-esque). Leclerc seemed to be a destination shopping spree as everything seemed premium looking.

Display of fresh seafood including crabs and shrimp on ice in a market stall, with wicker baskets and signage.
Live rock crabs
A display of freshly harvested oysters labeled as 'HUITRES CREUSES DE PAIMPOL N°3' priced at €9.95 per kilogram, with a promotional sign highlighting 'MAGALLANA GIGAS élevées en Bretagne.'
Dangerously delicious oysters
A display of assorted fish on ice at a seafood counter, featuring price tags for barbecued fish, red mullet, trout portions, and sardines. A promotional sign is visible.
Super fresh fish

Ultimately I ended up in the wine and spirits aisle and looking for something different, but something that would complement Chicken or Tartiflette (A local Brittany dish influenced by Daphnenoise Potatoes)

So for the princely sum of €9 and for a wine that is undiscovered, that is rare and will appeal to most consumers palete. For me this was a first and great to see ‘Multiples’ going Local grown locally sourced – Unlike UK. A great lesson to be learnt here !

Indeed Leclerc has built a strong reputation for championing French producers, particularly those from lesser-known regions such as Savoie. By listing a wine made from Mondeuse Blanche, the retailer not only supports small-scale, heritage-driven viticulture but also differentiates its wine offering from competitors. This exclusivity can drive curiosity and engagement in-store, encouraging customers to explore and trade up within the category.

Additionally, there is a growing consumer appetite for “hidden gem” wines — authentic, limited-production bottles with a sense of place. Mondeuse Blanche, with its alpine origins and microscopic plantings, fits this trend perfectly. Its freshness, food-friendly profile and link to French wine history (as a parent of Syrah) further enhance its appeal.

Ultimately, for Leclerc, stocking Mondeuse Blanche is not just about selling wine—it’s about offering discovery, provenance and a uniquely French narrative at an accessible price point.

Tasting notes

Mondeuse blanche is a variety of white grape almost exclusively found in and around the Savoy (Savoie) wine region in France. With just 5 hectares (12 acres) OR 12 Twickenham rugby pitches of plantations in 1999, it is surviving by ‘the skin of it’s teeth’ and mainly seen 2nd highest rating of categorization below AOC and above Table wine. Also seen in AOC Vin de Savoie.

Related grapes

Some studies have suggested that Mondeuse blanche is a parent of Syrah.

Mondeuse blanche is not closely related to Mondeuse noire, or Mondeuse gris.

Grapes just called Mondeuse are usually Mondeuse noire rather than Mondeuse blanche.

In the 20th century, ampelographers Louis Levadoux and (decades later) Linda Bisson categorized Mondeuse blanche as a member of the Peloursin eco-geogroup along with other less consumer friendly grapes like – Bia blanc, Béclan, Dureza, Exbrayat, Durif, Jacquère, Joubertin, Peloursin, Servanin and Verdesse.

In other words…. its called

Synonyms include Aigre blanc, Blanc Aigre, Blanche, Blanchette, Couilleri, Dongine, Donjin, Jongin, Jonvin, Molette, Persagne, Savouette.

Appearance
Pale lemon with a subtle golden tint, bright and crystalline. There’s a gentle viscosity in the glass, hinting at both ripeness and the grape’s natural structure.

Aroma
Delicate yet intriguingly layered. The nose opens with white orchard fruits—pear, apple and mirabelle plum—alongside soft apricot and peach tones. Floral notes of acacia and hawthorn drift through, supported by a subtle alpine freshness. With air, a faint herbal nuance and a light stony minerality emerge, reflecting its mountain origins.

Palate
Fresh, textured and quietly powerful. The palate delivers crisp orchard fruit—green apple, pear and citrus—balanced by a firm, linear acidity that is a hallmark of the variety. There’s a gentle weight through the mid-palate, with hints of stone fruit and a lightly honeyed edge developing. The finish is long, mineral-driven and faintly saline, with a touch of grip that adds structure and ageing potential. A refined, characterful expression of a rare Alpine grape.

Food Pairing
A superb match for alpine and delicate dishes. Pair with freshwater fish such as trout, fondue or raclette, and soft mountain cheeses like Tomme de Savoie. It also works beautifully with roast chicken, veal in a light cream sauce, or herb-led vegetarian dishes where its acidity and subtle richness shine.


Interesting Facts – Mondeuse Blanche

  • Mondeuse Blanche is an ancient and rare grape native to Savoie.
  • Despite its name, it is not a white mutation of Mondeuse Noire, but a completely distinct variety.
  • It is historically significant as one of the parent grapes of Syrah, making it genetically linked to one of the world’s most important varieties.
  • Wines made from it are known for high acidity and ageing potential, sometimes capable of developing over decades.
  • The grape nearly disappeared in the 20th century and is now considered a revived heritage variety, championed by a small number of producers.

World Planting Area of Mondeuse Blanche

Mondeuse Blanche is one of the rarest commercial grape varieties in the world:

  • France (primarily Savoie): ~8 hectares (2018)
  • 5 hectares globally (late 1990s)
  • Other estimates suggest just 5–10 hectares worldwide depending on vintage and replanting efforts

Summary:
Total global plantings remain well under 10 hectares, making Mondeuse Blanche an exceptionally rare and niche grape—truly a connoisseur’s discovery.

Stocking Mondeuse Blanche would align perfectly with the evolving retail strategy of E.Leclerc, which has increasingly focused on authenticity, regional identity and value-driven discovery. As one of the rarest indigenous grape varieties in France, Mondeuse Blanche offers a compelling story that resonates with modern consumers seeking something beyond mainstream varietals like Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc.

Leclerc has built a strong reputation for championing French producers, particularly those from lesser-known regions such as Savoie. By listing a wine made from Mondeuse Blanche, the retailer not only supports small-scale, heritage-driven viticulture but also differentiates its wine offering from competitors. This exclusivity can drive curiosity and engagement in-store, encouraging customers to explore and trade up within the category.

Additionally, there is a growing consumer appetite for “hidden gem” wines—authentic, limited-production bottles with a sense of place. Mondeuse Blanche, with its alpine origins and microscopic plantings, fits this trend perfectly. Its freshness, food-friendly profile and link to French wine history (as a parent of Syrah) further enhance its appeal.

Ultimately, for Leclerc, stocking Mondeuse Blanche is not just about selling wine—it’s about offering discovery, provenance and a uniquely French narrative at an accessible price point.

A circular seal design featuring a seal perched on a drum, with the words 'SEAL OF APPROVAL' encircling the image.
For Me it Gets the GW Seal of Approval

All this for 9 Euros. You just have to discover. This is a great lesson from moving away from your favourites and trying something new. Yes you can get it in the Wildes of Brittany and no you cant get it in Waitrose

BUT

What you can do is next time your hands go for the Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, just look around first and see if anything catches your eye. You might be pleasantly surprised.